Part one · 2 steps

Visa & residency

Start the Long-Stay Visitor Visa (VLS-TS Visiteur) path
France's route for retirees. Plan on roughly $1,712/month of provable income — pension, Social Security, dividends — and expect the consulate to want it documented. The current read:
From our Pau research
Same national route as the rest of France: the VLS-TS 'visiteur' long-stay visa requires stable passive income at roughly the French net minimum wage (SMIC ~€1,443/mo net as of Jan 1 2026; shown ~$1,650 USD), with some consulates expecting ~€1,550/mo per person and a couple to show proportionally more. Pensions, Social Security, IRA/401(k) and investment income qualify; healthy savings reinforce the file but don't replace income. You sign an attestation not to work in France and need private health insurance for the first year. Apply at a French consulate, validate online within 3 months of arrival, then renew annually at the Pau prefecture, building toward a multi-year card and eventual permanent residency.
Read the full Pau profile →
Get key documents apostilled + certified-translated
Birth/marriage certificates, background checks — start early; it's slow, and every residency application wants them.
Our visa paperwork guide →
Part two · 3 steps

Healthcare

Map your care in Pau
Know where you'd go before you need it — the hospital for something serious, the specialist, the pharmacy that speaks English. Here's our current read:
From our Pau research
Solid for a mid-size French town. The public Centre Hospitalier de Pau (Hôpital François Mitterrand) handles general and emergency care, and the private Polyclinique Pau Pyrénées (Marzet and Navarre sites, ~170+ beds at Marzet) covers surgery, oncology/chemo, cardiology, imaging (CT/MRI) and rehab. Residents access France's PUMA public system after ~3 months plus a mutuelle (~€30-70/mo each) for the gap. English-speaking doctors exist but are fewer than in Bordeaux; Doctolib helps. For the most complex/quaternary cases, the regional academic referral centers are CHU de Bordeaux (~2h) or CHU de Toulouse (~2h15), both reachable by road/rail.
Read the full Pau profile →
Know what Medicare does — and doesn't — cover abroad
Original Medicare generally doesn't cover care outside the US. Whatever your plan becomes, it has to answer that gap.
Medicare abroad, explained →
Compare international / expat health insurance
See what international health plans actually cover — and what they cost.
Part three · 5 steps

Money & taxes

Pressure-test your Pau budget
A comfortable month in Pau runs about $3,273 for a couple, at current exchange rates. Build your own version on top of that base — your rent tier, your healthcare, your flights home — and see what's left over.
Build the real monthly number →
Understand US taxes as an expat in France
You still file US taxes abroad, and FBAR applies once foreign accounts pass $10,000. The country side matters just as much:
From our Pau research
France taxes residents on worldwide income, but the US-France treaty is favorable for American retirees: US Social Security and US-source pensions plus IRA/401(k)/Roth distributions are generally taxable only in the US (declared in France, where a credit usually offsets the French tax to near zero). US citizens still file in the US under the treaty's saving clause. French real-estate wealth tax (IFI) over €1.3M and CSG/CRDS social levies can apply to certain non-treaty income. Get cross-border tax advice for your specifics.
Read the full Pau profile →
US taxes abroad, explained →
Set up low-fee international money transfers
Bank wires quietly cost 3–5% in bad FX; specialists are far cheaper.
Have someone check the retirement math before you commit
Plan day-to-day cash + card access (and a backup card)
Check your cards' foreign-ATM fees before you go, and carry a backup card on a different network in case one gets swallowed.
Part four · 4 steps

The scouting trip

Book the Pau reconnaissance trip
Not a vacation — a rehearsal. Rent in an ordinary neighborhood for a few weeks and live a normal week: groceries, buses, a doctor's appointment, a quiet Tuesday. Getting there and back:
From our Pau research
Pau-Pyrénées (PUF) is a small domestic-only airport: frequent short hops to Paris (CDG ~25/wk and Orly via Amelia, ~1h30) plus a few other French cities, but zero international service. Every US trip means connecting through Paris (then ~8-9h transatlantic to the East Coast) — realistically 14-17h door-to-door. Toulouse (TLS, ~2h15 by road/rail) and Bordeaux (BOD, ~2h) offer wider European links if PUF schedules don't fit.
Read the full Pau profile →
Compare trip insurance for the scouting trip
Read the safety picture for yourself
Pau sits under a US State Department Level 2 (“exercise increased caution”) advisory. Check the current one before you book, then weigh it against the on-the-ground picture:
From our Pau research
Pau is a calm, residential university town generally regarded as safe, with low violent crime and a relaxed pace; petty theft is the main risk and is modest by big-city standards (Numbeo has thin Pau-specific data, so figures are perception-based and low-confidence). Typical precautions around the station, nightlife near the center, and parked-car break-ins apply. Women alone generally report comfort day and night in central areas. As with all of France, the country-level US State Dept Level 2 advisory reflects national terrorism risk and protests rather than any specific danger in Pau.
Read the full Pau profile →
Check the current advisory →
Test the season, not the postcard
Every place has a month the brochures skip. If you can, scout in the worst one:
From our Pau research
Temperate oceanic, famed historically for a 'mild' microclimate at the foot of the Pyrenees. Summers are pleasant (highs ~27-28C/80-83F, often clear); winters are cool and very damp (daytime ~10C/50F, January lows ~2-5C/36-41F, ~84% humidity). The big caveat is rain: ~1,400mm (55in) a year over ~187 rainy days, among the wettest in France — expect grey, drizzly stretches and the occasional Pyrenees fog.
Read the full Pau profile →
Part five · 6 steps

The move itself

Rent first — live a full season before you even think about buying
The single biggest regret-saver. The market isn't going anywhere.
Book a short-term furnished rental for your landing
Give yourself 1–3 months to find the right neighborhood.
Decide what to ship, store, or sell
Shipping a household is expensive; many movers regret over-shipping.
Re-home your US mail before you go
Banks, the IRS, Medicare — the mail keeps coming after you leave. Keep a US address you check from anywhere, or hand the whole job to a service.
Sort pet import + airline requirements early
Timelines for vaccines and paperwork can be months.
Our pet-move guide →
Scan and cloud-back-up every key document
Passports, prescriptions, insurance cards, the marriage certificate — one folder you can open from any phone, anywhere.
Part six · 4 steps

Settling in

Find your people in Pau
Loneliness is the #1 reason people move home — build the community before you build anything else. What's already there:
From our Pau research
Pau has a genuine historical Anglo tie — 19th-century British visitors made it a wellness resort, and oil/gas (TotalEnergies) sustains an international professional presence; guides cite a sizable foreign-resident population in the wider Béarn area (often quoted ~50,000, an estimate). The English-speaking community is real but smaller and more dispersed than Bordeaux's, so day-to-day French matters more. Expect a quieter, integrate-with-locals lifestyle, not an expat bubble.
Read the full Pau profile →
Join the expat community before you arrive
Start the conversations months before the flight.
Our community guide →
Set up a local SIM + home internet
If your phone's unlocked, an eSIM can cover you from day one; sort home internet once you have an address.
Start the language — even 20 words changes everything
French is what your daily life will run in — the clinic front desk, the market, the neighbors. A head start pays off from day one.

Partner-marked links may pay Second Summer a referral fee if you choose them. Rankings are never pay-to-rank. How partners work

← Back to the destination explorer